It’s just past dusk on a Thursday, aka the new Friday, and the Funk Zone is bursting with eccentric energy. Yet, the true place to be is The Lark. Nestled in the heart of the up-and-coming neighborhood, the space is reminiscent of a Venice Beach hot spot due to its undeniable cool-factor. The rustic-industrial interior is perfectly matched with vast open space, inviting the freshness of the Santa Barbara air to reach both indoor and outdoor diners, creating a divine setting. As the breeze shifts directions, and candlelight begins to dance, fragrant aromas of intermingling flavors sneak in with an irresistible charm. That’s it, The Lark has me. I have been converted. The place is on point.
There’s not much Santa Barbarians love more than the slice of heaven we proudly call home. Where local is better, and supporting mom & pop businesses is in, we relish in all the wonders SB holds. The Lark, clearly takes advantage of the values we hold near and dear to our hearts. It manages to embody the local culture, while dressing it up with decadence, in the best way possible. Chef Jason Paluska’s inspired menu is crafted with fragments of memories from his various travels. The result is a melting pot of flavors, who’s pairing is executed with unparalleled precision. Ingredients are locally sourced from the agricultural riches of the Central Coast, guaranteeing a fresh and ever-evolving menu, keeping visitors on their toes.
I join my party outside, and am pleasantly surprised by the miniature fire pit that is positioned directly behind me…it’s like they knew. The rest of the patio is adorned with similar strategically placed pits, ensuring warmth on breezy evenings. My fellow diners and myself, delve into the menu with childlike enthusiasm. Our hopes for this experience are without a doubt sky-high thanks to rave reviews we all heard from friends. Of course, what is a dinner with new friends without a drink? I wouldn’t know. The Lark’s bar is crowded with laughing patrons, so we know we are in for a treat. I decide to take a risk and order the Hummingbird — Junipero gin, campari, grapefruit, rosemary, and egg whites. While the others opt for a classic Whiskey Sour, and a spicy margarita. The service is quick, pleasant, and while informative, the waitress did not linger (essentially the makings of a dream server). Our cocktails arrive, and I have slightly lost my valor. Regardless, the murky vermillion drink filled with my least favorite spirit (I don’t know why I do this to myself) beckons, and I oblige. The verdict? Wow. Refreshing, exciting, and honestly this may become my new go-to order.
Between bonding over travel, the arts, and our irrefutable love for SB, we come to a decision on our order. A major plus to this gem of an establishment, is the family-style service. This concept brings people together, making it the ideal spot for a first date, catching up with old friends, and even business meetings. For a starter we order the Spicy Root Vegetable Chips, and as a result I am forever turned off from all bagged chips (both a blessing and a curse). The chips are crisped to perfection and generously seasoned with a blend of spices, but the true addictive quality is rooted in the goat cheese dip, whose thick and creamy consistency had me believing we began with dessert. Next came the veggies. I never thought I would say this, but Crispy Brussel Sproutsare heavenly. So for all the parents out there, consider having a chat with the chef to gain access to the recipe, because it is a true game changer. Being cliché as possible, we get the Roasted Beets and Burrata aka the new “basic” salad, complete with the hottest cheese of the year. This dish is everywhere, yet unexpected additions of pistachios, strawberries, watercress, and mache, dreamily drizzled in a hibiscus vinaigrette, transform it into anything but basic.
For our entrees we made sure to explore both “from the ranch” and “from the ocean” categories. The Yellowtail Hamachi Crudo, presented with beautiful simplicity, rivals similar dishes at upscale Japanese restaurants, and that’s saying a lot. Served with deliciously zesty marinated cucumber and fennel, the light fish is dressed up with vibrant blood orange aioli and sprinkles of chili flakes, resulting in a delight that is both visual and flavorful. Our next item from the ocean is the Pineapple & Habanero Glazed Spanish Octopus. This dish is perhaps the reason The Lark is dimly lit. Once I took a bite my bias went out the window (octopus looks kind of scary). Without appearance clouding our minds, other senses, like taste, are heightened, which is precisely the situation with the octopus. Cooked to a flawless texture, this is a must try.
Our final order arrives, and everyone at the table is stuffed. But, we are not quitters, and thankfully so, as the Crispy Smoked Pork Belly ended up being my absolute favorite dish. Since this was my first experience with pork belly I had nothing to compare to, needless to say, it blew my mind. Paluska truly outdoes himself with this one. Initially, the description of roasted blackberry, almond brittle, pickled Anaheim chili, and chicharron seemed mismatched, but intriguing. The pork belly melts in my mouth, while the contrasting flavors of biting chilies mingling with candied caramel crunch bring me to foodie heaven.
That evening, our table, and seemingly all those around us, were proud and full members of the clean plate club (I cannot imagine it any other way). The Lark is a must try for locals and visitors alike; it is the best of both worlds. Delivering the perks of a metropolis dining experience, through its aesthetic appeal and daring sapor, with the unmatched allure of a town by the sea. Experience the sui generis of The Lark for yourself, but do not forget to make a reservation…the place is always booked — a promising sign in itself.
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