There’s nothing quite like the holiday season in Copenhagen. A chilling winter breeze dances through decorated streets, picking up the sweet notes of baking treats and fragrant spices from outdoor markets, making its way to the heart of the city. There, in the King’s New Square, the historic hotel D'Angleterre is illuminated like a Christmas tree. It’s magical.
From the sweeping balcony of my luxurious fourth-floor suite I enjoy the remainder of the day’s sun, as it rolls below the city, leaving pastel strokes in its wake. In an effort to get over my eleven-hour flight induced jetlag, I double down on bubbles and comfort with a bath (tip: call down for bath salts to take your bath to the next level of bliss) and a side of complimentary Champagne and cookies. Continuing with the pre-bedtime unwind, I curl up on a velvety chaise to enjoy a good book, and the soothing scent of a lavender rose bouquet.
After a delectable buffet filled with both Danish dishes—think rye bread topped with herring and a plethora of pastries—and obligatory international favorites like bacon and pancakes, I head out to explore the city. From the Amalienborg Palace, where the adored royal family resides, to richly-hued 17th-century townhouses that line the canal, the architecture is beautiful and tells the city’s history. The hotel’s neighboring buildings are a must-see as well. The Royal Danish Theatre’s Old Stage (which to my delight can be admired from my room) founded in 1748 to serve the king and eventually the country, features marble columns and gold accents, in classic European form. Just across the street Magasin du Nord, a popular department store, houses the first ever Joe & The Juice, which is sweeping the world with delicious beverages and its edgy-Scandinavian style. Any street I turn on, there’s something worth capturing on camera, or in a memory.
Given that my main form of transportation back home is driving, the walking tour (and I hope the time difference) left me ready for an afternoon break, which during the month of December means gløgg and aebleskiver in Denmark. I take my Christmas specialty in the upper lobby alongside the fireplace. Though traditionally the beverage is based on red wine, D’Angleterre created its own Chardonnay version, aptly named the Snow Queen’s Gløgg—a nod to the hotel’s famous guest, Hans Christian Andersen. Served in thick crystal flutes, the toasty drink is like holiday-spirit in liquid form with notes of ginger, cloves and warming white rum. It’s so good, I could go for a pitcher...The airy aebleskiver can be compared to pancake balls, dusted with powdered sugar and served with a side of berry jam. Between the mouth watering sweets, ambiance, and boozy drink, I feel an overwhelming sense of coziness. Apparently, that’s the goal. All this goodness is meant to create hygge: an atmosphere of internal warmth and joy to fight the long winter’s darkness. This powerful phenomenon is responsible for much of the Danes’ positivity (Denmark consistently ranks top-three on the happiest countries list). I’m starting to think this ought to be the next big export, because I’m sold. Although hygge typically involves spending time with friends and family, I continue on my solo adventure with a visit to Amazing Space by Laura Bonné, the hotel’s luxurious spa. After a few laps in the pool and a seriously relaxing massage, I’m sure this is the best way to travel, with hygge in mind.
Yesterday’s impressive breakfast, and likely my insatiable appetite, brought me back to the hotel’s buffet. My plans for portion-control and self-control quickly dissipate as I melt into my chair with a freshly baked chocolate croissant that rivals the fluffy versions found in Parisian cafés, and a fresh mimosa in-hand. Whatever helps fight the cold short days, right? Prepped to brace another day of walking through frosted streets, I make my way to the Renaissance-era Rosenborg Castle. As a museum it provides a glimpse into royal life through the ages with grandiose gold-trimmed dressers and clocks, intricate ivory jewelry boxes, family portraits, and of course, the crown jewels. The jewels, which are still worn by Queen Margrethe II for special events (oh, what a life), are not to be missed! After a light history lesson it’s time for a boat tour through through the canals with Hey Captain. Though the cold was apparent during my stroll to the museum it turns biting on the water. But it’s Captain to the rescue with a wool blanket and some steaming gløgg! Note: during my attempt to brave the cold a couple went winter bathing (yes, that means they actually dove into the freezing water). This chilling tradition is followed by a serious sauna session, yet I’m still not sold. Maybe on my next visit. There’s nothing quite like a boat ride through golden hour to really see a city. I’m mesmerized by the chic and modern house boats, the Black Diamond Library as it glistens in the light, and the overall feel of the city. The Danes are definitely on to something.
On the itinerary for the evening is dinner at Marchal, the Michelin Star restaurant conveniently located in D’Angleterre. Hues of lilac and deep purple are sprinkled on chandeliers and plush velvet couches, popping against the paneled walls and sleek floor-to-ceiling glass doors. Fitting with the décor, the cuisine has a French foundation with a refined-Nordic twist, courtesy of head chef Andreas Bagh. In-keeping with the high standards, Andreas brings out some appetizers: duck liver mousse, “Bloody Mary” oysters, cheese puffs, and pork rinds with sour cream and caviar. It’s a decadent start, with the truffle cream-filled puffs topped with a generous truffle-shave (it’s so extra, but just right all at once) taking the cake. Between devouring squid in Champagne foam and a hearty Agnolotti pasta, I discover that D'Angleterre actually started out as a restaurant, back in 1755—the name even pays homage to the founder, Jean Marchal and his wife Maria. This five-star dining experience concludes with a bang, or perhaps a spark is more fitting. A Baked Alaska is flambéed before my eyes, but before my awe wears off, I’m presented with a chocolate mousse, a panna cotta, and what could be called the house dessert, a Ris a la Mande. As legend goes around D’Angleterre, the famed rice pudding treat was created in the hotel around the 19th century when a guest stumbled in late at night. The stories surrounding the hotel are endless thanks to its long history and extensive list of notable guests that runs from celebrities to politicians.
A visit to Copenhagen is not complete without discovering the wonder that is Tivoli Gardens. The 175 year-old amusement park is a true Winter Wonderland this time of year, equipped with Father Christmas (aka Santa Claus), artificial snow (until the real stuff arrives), live performances, restaurants, and bars. Whether you want to sip cocktails at Nimb’s rooftop pool, the progressively luxe hotel inside Tivoli, or bring your inner child out to play with a rollercoaster ride, there’s something for everybody. I walk through the park past laughing children running with excitement and couples cuddling up to keep warm. You can feel something special in the air at Tivoli. After a few rides and a pastry break—when in Denmark—I head to the theatre for a special Nutcracker ballet, infused with the tales of Hans Christian Andersen.
After a short taxi ride to Islands Brygge I find myself in what looks like, the wrong neighborhood. Graffiti decorates the building’s walls, and not in the mural way, but the drawing obscene caricatures way. I reluctantly take a New York-loft style elevator up, where a charismatic waiter swings the door open with a “Welcome to Alouette.” And just like that I’m right where I need to be, in a mid-century modern design dream. The new hidden gem operates on a five-course set menu with a choice or wine or juice pairings (yes, juice, and we’re not even in L.A.). I opt for wine. Inspired by product rather than cuisine, the restaurant offers an ever-changing lineup that’s based in large on what products local farmers have at the moment. First arrives the Bastard Princess (beer) pancake with Guinea Hen Thigh topped off with pickled onion––it’s reminiscent of a taco, and I’d gladly add it to my Tuesday dinners.
Following a delicious embered pumpkin paste with caviar I delve into, perhaps my favorite dish of the trip, the Danish Squid in a Lemongrass Beurre Blanc. This “pasta” is so thin and light that I’m ready to ditch quinoa versions and have my Italian craving fulfilled with a weekly shipment of this bright, yet comforting dish. A dry-aged steak and pan-roasted turbot later, I’m smiling from ear to ear as dessert is placed before me. The Quince Quince Quince, as the menu describes it, is a tart in which every layer—from the filling to the topping, and the crust—contains, you guessed it, quince! They say you save the best for last, and boy does that ring true for Alouette.
Parting with a suite I’d like to move into, and leaving a city where each one of my meals, including bakery stops, exceeded a five-star Yelp rating, is not easy. Yet, I take with me a newfound fascination with hygge culture, beautiful memories, and the reassurance that I will be back soon. Afterall, this major foodie destination holds 14 more Michelin-starred restaurants that I cannot wait to explore.
Originally published in the Jan/February 2019 issue of Santa Barbara Life & Style Magazine.
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